Eritrea

Is Eritrea safe to visit?

Only with caution and a good reason. On the street, Asmara is calm: the FCDOFCDO travel adviceThe UK government's travel advice for each country, which can advise against all travel or all but essential travel to specific areas.More in the glossary calls it relatively safe, and visitors who keep to the capital rarely meet crime. The risk lies elsewhere. On 9 October 2026 the UK began advising against all but essential travel to the whole country, and against all travel within 25 km of any land border, as tension with Ethiopia rose alongside the renewed war in northern Ethiopia. The US advisoryUS travel advisoryThe US State Department's rating of each country from Level 1 (exercise normal precautions) to Level 4 (do not travel).More in the glossary is still Level 2, but it dates from July 2023 and warns that Americans have been detained without charge. We score Eritrea 49, above Ethiopia and well above Sudan, but far below Djibouti across the southern border.

Much of the data is old or modelled. The only national homicide figure is from 2012 (WHO's 2021 model gives 10.4 per 100,000), and the road death numbers are WHO estimatesWHO road-death estimateThe World Health Organization's estimate of road traffic deaths per 100,000 people in a country, adjusted for deaths that police statistics miss.More in the glossary, so treat every number here as a rough guide.

The Ethiopia question

Eritrea fought a border war with Ethiopia from 1998 to 2000 and then sided with Addis Ababa in the 2020–22 Tigray war. That alignment has broken down. The 2026 Global Peace IndexGlobal Peace IndexAn annual ranking of 163 countries by how peaceful they are, based on conflict, crime, militarisation and political instability.More in the glossary says Eritrea ordered a nationwide mobilisation in February 2025, Ethiopia moved troops toward the border, and in February 2026 Ethiopia's foreign minister formally accused Eritrea of "military aggression". The index calls the risk of war between the two one of the most acute in the region and ranks Eritrea 128th of 163.

Fighting between the Ethiopian army and Tigrayan forces resumed in September 2026. The UN said on 25 September that it was gravely concerned as fighting spread across northern Ethiopia on several fronts, with drone strikes and harm to civilians. Inside Eritrea there is no reported fighting, but the FCDOFCDO travel adviceThe UK government's travel advice for each country, which can advise against all travel or all but essential travel to specific areas.More in the glossary notes conscription drives, mobilisation of reservists and extra security around Asmara. It warns that if a crisis develops, leaving the country could become hard and consular help or evacuation may be very limited.

The border strips are off-limits for a reason. The FCDO cites military activity on the Ethiopian and Sudanese borders, a fragile standoff on the Djibouti border since fighting in 2008, and landmines. The US lists mined areas around Nakfa, Adi Keih, Arezza, north and west of Keren, near Massawa, Ghinda, Agordat, Barentu and Dekemhare, south of Tessenei, and the strip between the Setit and Mereb rivers. Never leave a paved road in these areas.

Detention, permits and rules

The most serious risk for a foreigner is the state, not crime. The US says its citizens, including dual nationals, have been arrested and held without charge or on false charges, and Eritrean officials routinely block embassy access to detainees. The FCDOFCDO travel adviceThe UK government's travel advice for each country, which can advise against all travel or all but essential travel to specific areas.More in the glossary says the authorities may not tell the British Embassy when a British national needs help.

Rules that matter:

• Permits. You need a travel permit for any trip outside Zoba Maekel, the region around Asmara, and checkpoints check them. Tourists apply at the Ministry of Tourism; it takes days and may be refused.
• Photography. Photographing government buildings and military sites is illegal. Ask before taking pictures wherever security staff are present.
• Money. Declare foreign cash of $10,000 or more, change money only at Himbol, the state exchange, or spend it at official hotels, and keep receipts. If you cannot account for foreign money you spent, you may face prosecution.
• Electronics. Declare laptops, phones and cameras on arrival or they can be confiscated when you leave.
• Dual nationals. Eritrea treats anyone of Eritrean origin as Eritrean, with possible national service duties, and the British Embassy cannot assist them.

Same-sex sexual activity is illegal and can lead to prison.

Roads and getting around

WHO estimatesWHO road-death estimateThe World Health Organization's estimate of road traffic deaths per 100,000 people in a country, adjusted for deaths that police statistics miss.More in the glossary 17.7 road deaths per 100,000 people in 2021, the same as Ethiopia; its older 2019 series put Eritrea at 37.9. The roads down from the highlands to the coast and the lowlands wind through the mountains, and the FCDOFCDO travel adviceThe UK government's travel advice for each country, which can advise against all travel or all but essential travel to specific areas.More in the glossary warns of tight blind bends, steep drops, few barriers, uneven surfaces, little street lighting and drivers without lights. Some roads become impassable in the rainy season. Travel by day with an experienced driver, and expect checkpoints. Tourists have reportedly been refused permission to use public transport outside Asmara.

Rain sometimes damages the runway at Asmara International Airport, closing it until repairs are made. Build slack into your flight plans.

Health care

CDC says there is no malaria transmission in Asmara, but it advises antimalarial tablets for all areas below 2,200 m, which includes Massawa, the Red Sea coast and the western lowlands. Malaria is rising: WHO estimatedWHO road-death estimateThe World Health Organization's estimate of road traffic deaths per 100,000 people in a country, adjusted for deaths that police statistics miss.More in the glossary 102 cases per 1,000 people at risk in 2024, against 63 in 2023. Altitude sickness is possible on arrival. CDC says rabid dogs are common and rabies vaccine may only be found in larger towns, so consider pre-travel vaccination for long stays.

The FCDOFCDO travel adviceThe UK government's travel advice for each country, which can advise against all travel or all but essential travel to specific areas.More in the glossary says there are three public hospitals in Asmara, facilities elsewhere are often poorly equipped, and the range of medicines is limited. Bring all prescription medicine for the trip plus extra, and insurance that covers evacuation. For an ambulance call 122244; the call handler may not speak English.

How we scored it

Conflict (32) is the weakest factor, reflecting the FCDOFCDO travel adviceThe UK government's travel advice for each country, which can advise against all travel or all but essential travel to specific areas.More in the glossary's nationwide warning, the mined and militarised borders and the risk of detention. Health (35) is also poor, and road safety (49) rests on WHO's 2021 estimate of 17.7 deaths per 100,000. Petty crime (75) is the strongest, because theft and scams against visitors are rarely reported. Violent crime (58) rests on WHO's modelled homicide rateHomicide rateThe number of people killed on purpose each year for every 100,000 residents. It is the most comparable crime figure between countries.More in the glossary of 10.4, since the only national figure is from 2012, one reason confidence is low.